Monday 26 December 2011

Christmas in South Sudan

Another Christmas been and gone and I can't remember what it's like anywhere else.  Concessions to the holiday season in Juba have been few - a few decorations here and there and a creepy-looking Father Christmas by a roundabout being guarded by a camoflage-clad soldier.

I'm surprised the government has a soldier spare to look after old Santa, as the youth of the Nuer tribe have spent the last week launching attacks on the neighbouring Murle in Jonglei state and someone really needs to go and tell them to show a bit of festive spirit and stop it.

It hasn't been a very jolly week for security staff in Juba.  Five days ago someone shot two of our guards in the leg and stole one of our land-cruisers right outside the office in front of several onlookers.  One of the guards was told by his employer to report to work at my guest house later that evening and never mind the hole in his leg, until someone interceded on his behalf for clemency.  And on Christmas Eve three women were shot dead just around the corner, with the result that the streets were so awash with AK-47 waggling policemen that many of us couldn't get to our Christmas parties.

For me Christmas Day involved a BBQ on the banks of the Nile, shisha, party games and a Chinese-made inflatable reindeer with the price written on its face in indelible marker.

Also occupying my time these days is a 4-week old kitten who is halfway through a fortnight in my custody, and who is making exciting strides in the areas of eating solid food, chasing mouse-like objects, leaping into yawning chasms and going to the lavatory.

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