Life in an independent nation

Things are much as they were before we got all independent.  For some reason there are a lot more road blocks, which usually aren't too much of a problem if you don't look like a gun-runner.  It's worth not copying the example of someone I know who was sick out of one car door while the driver was questioned in another.  Some other friends also got stopped by a policeman, who asked them why they were laughing as they drove, apparently an unpardonable offence.

Huge progress was made on the international airport in the weeks before independence day, but this appeared to stop on independence morning and presumably the airport will now be half finished for the next 20 years.  There are solar powered street lights which oddly enough do actually get light after dark and not just while they are being powered by the sun.

We have a new stock of bank notes emblazoned with the face of emancipation hero John Garang and traditional South Sudanese scenes.  If you're wondering where in South Sudan you can see a lion lying before a magnificent waterfall, just take a look at the new 100 pound note.  There is also a 25 pound note, which I am predicting will lead to all manner of confusion.  Estranged sibling (North) Sudan is also issuing new banknotes, leading to all and sundry scrambling to rid themselves of old Sudanese pounds which will soon be about as useful as an electric blanket in a Juba guesthouse.  This is called the Currency War and so far has been a lot more civilised than the Civil War.

Independence day

Last night at midnight South Sudan did what is has been fighting to do for half a century and stuck it to the Man by becoming its own nation.

Today the government has organised a hilariously-timed programme of celebrations, including speeches from ten major world figures in an hour and thirty five minutes.  The speakers will include the Secretary General of the United Nations, the President of South Sudan and everyone's favourite pantomime villain, the President of (North) Sudan.  I expect the speeches to be over some time around Monday lunchtime.

Last night the people held their own celebration by driving overflowing cars, troop-carriers and motorbikes in a ragged procession around the streets of Juba.  Hazard lights flashed permanently, horns honked pretty much permanently, hands were slapped and fists punched in every passing vehicle.  The shouts were "new nation!", "SPLA oyay" in recognition of the Sudan People's Liberation Army, and a general all-purpose howling.  We joined in the procession in an NGO land-cruiser, and had six people on the roof and two hanging off the side within a few minutes.

We saw one man manage to drive despite having most of his body out the window and on the roof of his car, one daredevil lying on his motorbike like Superman and swooping between cars and pedestrians, and one fellow pushing his broken-down car to the side of the road but still blowing lustily on a vuvuzela trumpet.  There were plenty of home-made flame throwers fashioned from lighters and bug spray, and people seemed to be chucking fireworks about.  By the side of the road lay some who had evidently began their celebrations in the morning, but there seemed little time for drinking.

Road safety is never high on the agenda around here, and you feared for some of the car roof gymnasts.  As we approached the countdown clock tower on the stroke of midnight we saw a limp body being dragged from the road and tossed in the back of a pickup.

The clock tower was the focus of the midnight celebrations, and traffic approaching the roundabout found itself entering a melee of dancers with shields and spears, embracing families, jerry-can drummers and BBC news crews.

I have no idea what freedom feels like as I have never known anything else.  From what I saw last night, it's not so much a state of mind as a physical feeling.  It was possibly the coolest thing I've ever seen.